The Ultimate Blouse Shoulder (Teera) and Armhole (Mudda) Cutting Formula
Eliminate shoulder slipping and armhole creasing forever. The definitive measurement chart and calculation formula based on bust size (28" to 46") and neckline depth.
Verified Cutting Measurement Chart
| Bust Size | Shoulder (Teera) | Armhole (Mudda) | Neck Width |
|---|---|---|---|
| 28 - 30 inches | 4.75 - 5.0 inches | 5.0 - 5.25 inches | 2.0 inches |
| 32 - 34 inches | 5.0 - 5.25 inches | 5.5 - 5.75 inches | 2.25 inches |
| 36 - 38 inches | 5.5 - 5.75 inches | 6.0 - 6.25 inches | 2.5 inches |
| 40 - 42 inches | 6.0 - 6.25 inches | 6.5 - 6.75 inches | 2.75 inches |
| 44 - 46 inches | 6.5 - 6.75 inches | 7.0 inches | 3.0 inches |
⚠️ Common Cutting Mistakes to Avoid
- Cutting the shoulder at standard width even when the back neckline is cut 10 inches deep (causes slipping)
- Omitting the 0.75-inch front armhole inward scoop (causes ugly fabric puckering near the chest)
- Attaching sleeves without cross-checking the actual armhole circumference against the sleeve cap
Watch Practical Video Tutorial
The Mathematical Foundation of Flawless Blouse Fit
In Indian blouse cutting, 90% of all fitting issues stem from two errors:
- The shoulder strap repeatedly slips down the arm.
- Excess fabric gathers in wrinkles around the armhole (armpit area).
While many dressmakers compensate by attaching tie cords (Dori), a geometrically drafted blouse will hug the shoulders securely even with a 10-inch deep back neckline without any cords.
1. Shoulder Width (Teera) Reduction Rule
On high collars or boat necks, we take the exact anatomic half-shoulder width (e.g., 14” divided by 2 = 7”).
However, as the back neckline drops deeper, fabric tension shifts outward. To keep the shoulder strap seated, we apply the neck depth reduction formula:
- Neck Depth 5” to 7”: Deduct 1.5 inches from standard half-shoulder.
- Neck Depth 8” to 9”: Deduct 2.0 inches from standard half-shoulder.
- Neck Depth 10” to 12”: Deduct 2.5 to 3.0 inches from standard half-shoulder.
2. Armhole Depth (Mudda) Calculation
The standardized tailoring ratio for armhole drop: $$\text{Armhole Depth} = \frac{\text{Bust Circumference}}{6} + 0.5 \text{ inches}$$
(Example: For a 36-inch bust, $36 / 6 = 6.0$ inches. Adjusted for neckline depth = 6.0 to 6.25 inches.)
3. The Front vs. Back Armhole Scoop
- Back Pattern: Draw the curve 1.5 inches from the corner angle.
- Front Pattern: Draw the curve 1.0 inch from the corner, then scoop inward by 0.75 inches along the mid-chest zone. This 0.75-inch front scoop prevents front chest wrinkling.
Master Professional Fitting and Drafting
Enroll in our comprehensive masterclasses for step-by-step guidance, drafting sheets, and teacher mentorship.