Tailoring Terminology Reference

Tailoring Glossary & Terminology

Clear explanations of 15 essential Indian tailoring terms and garment construction techniques.

Measurement #1

Teera

Teera (Shoulder Width)

Shoulder width measurement in Indian garment drafting

Tailoring Rule: Deduct 2.0 to 2.5 inches from half-shoulder on deep necklines to prevent shoulder slipping.

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Measurement #2

Mudda

Mudda (Armhole Depth)

Vertical armhole drop measurement and curvature

Tailoring Rule: Armhole drop = Bust / 6 + 0.5". Front pattern requires a 0.75" deeper curve than back.

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Pattern #3

Katori

Katori (Bust Cup)

Molded or darted fabric cup constructed in Indian blouses

Tailoring Rule: Always expand the baseline drafting piece by 1.25" on both outer sides before cutting fabric.

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Stitch #4

Tak / Dart

Tak / Dart (Contour Dart)

Tapered stitched fold shaping flat textiles to human anatomy

Tailoring Rule: Maintain a 1.5" to 2" radial clearance from the bust apex point on all 4 bodice darts.

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Pattern #5

Cross Belt / Yoke Patti

Curved underbust contour waistband in traditional blouses

Tailoring Rule: Draft with 3.5" height at front placket and 3.0" height at side torso seam.

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Fabric #6

Pasting / Bukram

Bukram / Fusible Interfacing

Heat-fusible or stiff woven interfacing for necklines and collars

Tailoring Rule: Use heat-fusible paper pasting for curved necklines to ensure clean, crisp rolls.

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Stitch #7

Kachha Tanka

Kachha Tanka (Basting Stitch)

Temporary long running stitch to hold layers before final sewing

Tailoring Rule: Always baste delicate silk to lining with long machine or hand stitches prior to seam assembly.

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Finishing #8

Dori Piping

Dori Piping (Corded Bias Piping)

Bias-cut fabric strip enclosing a cord for raised decorative edge definition

Tailoring Rule: Always cut bias strips at a strict 45-degree angle to enable puckering-free curves.

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Finishing #9

Sari Fall & Pico

Sari Fall & Pico Hemming

Weighting hem band and rolled serged edge finishing for saris

Tailoring Rule: Always pre-wash and steam press cotton fall tape before stitching to prevent post-wash puckering.

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Pattern #10

Ghera / Daman

Ghera / Daman (Hem Circumference)

Bottom sweep circumference of tunics, anarkalis, or flared lehengas

Tailoring Rule: Elevate lateral side hem points by 1.0 inch during drafting to eliminate drooping corners.

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Fabric #11

Astar (Lining)

Astar (Garment Lining)

Inner textile layer providing opacity, structure, and skin comfort

Tailoring Rule: Always immerse cotton lining in cold water, line dry, and steam press before cutting.

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Pattern #12

Miyani / Gusset

Miyani / Gusset (Crotch Inset)

Diamond-shaped fabric inset sewn into crotch seams for mobility

Tailoring Rule: A crotch gusset prevents seam tearing and tight pulling across the groin when seated.

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Measurement #13

Margin & Looseness

Margin / Ease Allowance

Additional fabric tolerance added for anatomical ease and future letting-out

Tailoring Rule: Incorporate 1.5" to 2.0" interior side seam margin in bespoke garments for lifetime alterability.

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Pattern #14

Armhole Curve

Armhole Curve (Armscye)

Elliptical contour around the shoulder socket framing sleeve insertion

Tailoring Rule: Use a French curve ruler to draft a continuous smooth transition without sharp angular breaks.

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Finishing #15

Neckline Finishing

Neckline Finishing (Facing & Piping)

Techniques for binding or facing raw neckline edges with precision

Tailoring Rule: Always snip small radial relief notches along curved seam lines before pressing facings inward.

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